What excites you about Intimate Apparel technical design?

I am passionate about understanding the relationship between our most intimate garments and our bodies, and therefore our minds and emotions. Celebrating and supporting the body is something that I have always valued. I have a deeply feeling heart and a highly analytical mind which is required for technical design. I love taking a beautiful fabric and using math and science to build something that enhances the human body and experience.

Tell us about your training and experience.

After completing a degree in Contour Fashion in the UK, I worked in the industry for over a decade- across 4 continents -mostly for suppliers of lingerie and swim retailers and brands, learning from generations of experienced machinists and pattern makers, sharpening my technical skill, commercial understanding and business acumen. In 2019, I started my company Bold Intimates to develop products for a new world of Intimate Apparel, one that has humans and the environment as the north star and an unrivalled dedication to accuracy. My mantra was born…’Precision Naturally.’

How does Up All Nightie differ from other products you've helped develop?

Up All Nightie is different from typical intimates' products because it incorporates technology and insight from multiple product categories. To deliver the brand's concept, we needed to consider elements of structured lingerie, loungewear and full cup technology which challenged traditional product builds and processes. The opportunity to combine skills and ideas in a unique way to solve a consumer problem and create something truly innovative is incredible.

How has the technical design process differed for Up All Nightie?

Up All Nightie has been one of the most complex and challenging products that my technical team with a combined 90+ years of experience has worked on, as well as one of the most exciting and rewarding. Because it combines elements from several very different product categories, traditional lingerie and loungewear, and has a large and varied size range, this required frequent physical testing of prototypes to see and understand constraints and opportunities. At times, this also meant product requirements conflicted with each other, or we experienced a surprise. This ‘on body’ approach to design and product development creates a space for curiosity and for something new to be created. Consequently, the sample prototyping, fitting and testing process has been much more rigorous and advanced compared to a standard intimate apparel process.

How do you ensure that designs are technically feasible?

A lot can be said from experience and having a bank of knowledge of what is going to work and what will be challenging. This includes familiarity with how 2D pattern shapes convert to a 3D form, how certain material properties behave on the body in motion, as well as the experience of working with machinists and factories globally which gives a rich understanding of material handling and construction. Getting to know the fabrics really well before design means there are fewer surprises throughout product development. This could include stitching trials and performance tests such as dimensional stability, bursting strength and color fastness to name a few. Being thorough with this testing and viability review allows me to feel confident with design proposals.

When designing for performance, what key factors do you prioritize?

For Up All Nightie, the brand's goal was to achieve beautiful lift, shape and support comfortably, even on larger cups sizes D+. It was important that the breasts look incredible-celebrate the breasts rather than constrain them. Of course, the element of maintaining performance while sleeping was critical, so the combination of comfort, support, shape and coverage throughout the night was also a goal. It has to feel great and truly support the wearer’s needs to be worn frequently, well-loved and cherished for a long time.

How does fit testing influence design decisions and overall workflow?

The fit and wearer experience is the end goal, so every element of a fitting or wearer trial is considered deeply, across a wide cross section of models. This is a core part of our product development process, and in my opinion, the most important part. At each stage of development, the nightie has been fitted on different bodies which has informed choices and next steps. There are multiple rounds of base size fitting and testing before we begin to grade the product and check the fit and performance across the whole size range. Unlike most nighties, Up All Nightie offers 28 band and cup sizes to ensure proper fit which is essential for delivering beautiful lift. Each size range has been carefully drafted, considered and tested.

Can you share an example of when fit testing led to a design change for Up All Nightie?

During wear testing, one fit model with a relatively larger bust and narrow back ratio felt that the straps were weakening in strength after wearing the garment for a few hours, and the bust was looking more relaxed than intended. This performance was not aligned with the brand's lift and support goals, and this particular breast and body size highlighted a limitation. We considered and implemented improvements for all sizes and changed the elastic strength and quality as well as re-drafted the back pattern shape and measurements. This one piece of feedback and subsequent materials and design change levelled up the nightie and enhanced performance across all sizes.

What excites you most about Up All Nightie as a product?

Up All Nightie is a unique garment in that it truly works, even on D cups and higher, yet it doesn't look or feel over-constructed. No heavy-duty structuring, no wires, no hardware, no padding. The product is a soft, comfortable pullover style chemise that beautifully lifts, shapes and accentuates the female form. Seeing the look on someone’s face when they first put it on and absorbing the energy that they feel while wearing the garment is what excites me the most! It is a wonderful and game-changing experience for the wearer. The product performs but also celebrates breasts and positively impacts how women feel about themselves and their bodies. And, that is what I’m here for. 

What do you enjoy most about working with Sarah and Rebecca?

I hugely value my relationship with Sarah and Rebecca and the team that we have created. We are aligned on core values and business mindset, whilst each bringing different skills and experiences to the table. I enjoy how we work through challenges and problem solve together on a foundation of deep respect and trust for the process. “Creativity loves constraints” is a phrase Rebecca shared early on in our partnership, and this is often in my mind as a place where we all thrive. It’s very exciting for me to work with people who have that outlook, who see challenges as opportunities, and are able to stay grounded and pivot as needed. In my experience, this is also a measure of success in bringing a new and innovative product to market.